Trimming for fabrics



(No Model.)

J. D. MORLEY. TRIMMING FOR FABRICS.

No. 424,568. Patented Apr. 1, 1890.

UNITED STATES PATENT OFFICE.

JOSEPH D. MORLEY, OF PHILADELPHIA, PENNSYLVANIA, ASSIGNOR TO J OSEPI'I M. MERRO\V, OF MERRO\V, CONNECTICUT.

TRIMMING FOR FABRICS.

SPECIFICATION forming part of Letters Patent No. 424,568, dated April 1, 1890.

Application filed April 30, 1888. Serial No. 272,316- (No model.)

To all whonr it may concern:

Be it known that I, JOSEPH D. MORLEY, a citizen of the United States, and a resident of Philadelphia, Pennsylvania, have invented an Improved Fabric-'lrimming, of which the following is a specification. v

This invent-ion relates to improvements in that class of ornamental trimmings or borders for fabrics shown and described in Patent No. 402,468, granted to J. M. Merrow, dated April 30, 1889; and it consists, principally,in the novel and improved arrangement or disposition of the thread or loops at the point of connection between adjacent clusters or scallops, as hereinafter fully described, and pointed out in the claims.

In the accompanying drawings, Figure 1 is an exaggerated diagrammatic view illustrating a section of my improved border or edging. Fig. 2 is a similar View showinga modification in the construction. Fig. 3 is a similar viewillustrating the application of a supplemental re-enforcin g thread.

Similar letters of reference in the several figures indicate the same parts.

The borders shown in the several views consist, essentially, of a base or foundation A and a succession or row of fan-shaped or shelllike figures B, composed of a thread formed into bunches of loops connected to and projecting beyond the edge of the fabric or foundation and radiating from properly-spaced foci a, adjacent to said edge, the loops 1) I) being drawn, successively, first from one side of the fabric and. then from the opposite side of the same, each loop I] from the one side being drawn through a loop I) from the op posite side and a preceding loop Z1 from the same side to form a single chain of stitches running along the outer edge of each bunch of loops. The adjacent ends or extremities of contiguous bunches of loops are united, either directly, as in Fig. 1, or through the medium of one or more intermediate stitches B, as shown in Fig. 2, the connection being formed by the chain of stitches at the outer ends of the loops. As the loops 1) Z), forming the clusters or bunches, are drawn from op posite sides of the fabric and their outer ends alone are interlooped, it follows that the line of stitches along the margin is somewhat loose and liable to be drawn and the symmetrical arrangement destroyed, and to overcome this and strengthen the margin an extra or supplemental thread 0 may be enchained with the main thread a in forming the line of stitches along the margin, as represented in Fig. 3 and described and claimed in the patent to J. M. Morrow, granted November 8, 1889, No. @4235.

The preferred mode of making the border shown in Figs. 1 and 3 is fully set forth in my application, Serial No. 25,780, filed August 1, 1887, which also discloses a machine for making it.

Generally speaking, the operations to be performed are as follows: The fabric or foundation strip A being held stationary, the

thread a is passed through the fabric anda loop Z) is drawn from beneath to or around the edge. A loop Z) is now taken from above the fabric, after which the thread is again passed through the fabric at or about the same place as before, and another loop I) is drawn from beneath through the two preceding loops 1) I). These operations are repeated until the desired number of stitches for a given cluster are formed, when, the last loop I) from below being held, the fabric is advanced, a loop I) is drawn from above, the thread passed again through the fabric, and another loop drawn from beneath and through the two preceding loops. If the form of border shown in Fig. 1 is-to be produced, the operations last described are repeated until a series or cluster of loops is produced, and if the form shown in Fig. 2 is desired the fabric or foundation strip is again fed forward before the next cluster of loops is produced, thereby forming the intermediate stitch B, as shown.

The mode of operation is substantially the same as that described and claimed in the Morrow i atent No. 402368, differing therefrom only in this: that the feeding of the fabric (to advance the thread from one point a and insert it in the next succeeding point a, after a bunch or cluster of loops has been formed) takes place or is performed while the last loop I), drawn from the under side of the fabric, is held, so that as a loop I) is drawn on the upper side and before the next succeedin'g loop b is formed the material will have been advanced and the ends of the thread forming loop Z) separated, one portion extending to the point of insertion for one cluster and the other portion carried to the next succeeding pointof insertion as part of the next stitch, Fig. 2, or of the next cluster, Fig. 1, whereas in the Merrow scallop the loops corresponding with b are formed on the upper side and the feeding takes place while the loop I) is held, whereby the thread forming said loop is separated where it connects with the fabric, one end forming part of one cluster and the other part of the next succeeding stitch or cluster. One of the principal advantages gained by this change in the relative arrangement of the two sets of loops 1) l) and the time of the feed is made manifest in the superior structure of the product. The thread composing the loop I) at thejunction of the clusters passes from one cluster to the next, while the stitches at the margin of the clusters and formed by the interlooped ends of the loops 1) continue in regular succession, the threads of each of said connecting-loops b at the ends of the adjacent clus ters passing in substantially parallel lines to the points a of their respective clusters. An extra thread is thus thrown into the connecting chain between successive clusters or bunches of loops, thereby not only rendering the figures more even and symmetrical in appearance, but also increasing the quantity of material at this point. Another advantage is derived from this arrangement of the loops 1) and Z) with respect to the connection between succeeding groups or stitches, and that is the preservation of the scalloped form of the clusters and relative positions of the loops when and after the finish or border is subjected to tension or pulled in a direction lengthwise of the foundation. This is owing to the fact that the threads of the loops Z), forming the chain of stitches along the margin, are wholly contained within their respective clusters or groups, the first loop I) of one cluster being passed through the last loop I) of the preceding stitch or cluster, and when stretched these loops forming the connection are as free to be drawn the one through the other as are the remaining stitches composing the margin, and thus the uniform spacing of the stitches is preserved.

I do not desire to claim herein the invention forming the subject of the Merrow patents, to which reference has been made, as my present invention constitutes, ashas been stated, an improvement thereon. Neither do I claim herein the method or mode of forming the improved trimming to which reference has been made, as said subject-matter is reserved in a prior application, Serial No. 245,7S0,filed August 1, 1887.

Having thus described my invention, what I claim as new is i 1. The hereinbefore described improved trimming or border for fabrics, the same consisting of a base or foundation A and a succession of clusters B, connected thereto at intervals and extending on opposite sides of the base beyond the margin, said clusters being each composed of a series of loops Z) on one side and a series of loops b on the opposite side, each loop 1) extending through a loop I) from the opposite side and a preceding loop I) on the same side, and the adjacent clusters joined together by a connection formed by the interlooped portion of the last loop I) of one cluster and a corresponding loop 17' of the next succeeding stitch or cluster, together with the thread of the last loop 12, substantially as and for the purpose set forth.

2. The hereinbefore described improved trimming or border for fabrics, the same consisting of a foundation A and a thread passing through the same and extending in loops on opposite sides thereof, a number of said loops extending in radial lines from a common focus, the outer ends being interlooped to form a chain, and the margin of the cluster thus formed being connected to the foundation at a point distant from the focus of said cluster by a loop from one side of the foundation engaging the last loop of the cluster, together with a thread on the reverse side of the foundation extending in loop form from the focus of said cluster to the point in the foundation from which said connecting-loop on the opposite side radiates.

3. The hereinbefore-described improved trimming or border for fabrics, consisting of a base or foundation A and a succession of clusters B,the latter composed of a main thread extending back and forth through the base several times at each designated point, forming clusters of loops whose outer ends are interlooped, and the adjacent clusters connected by a loop 5 of the main thread on one side of the base and ext-ending from the focus a of one cluster to the corresponding focus of'the next succeeding cluster, together with the interlooped ends of loops 1), the latter extending in opposite directions and each forming part of its particular cluster, and a supplemental thread enchained along the margin or interlooped portion of the several clusters and the connection between said clusters, substantially as described.

In testimony whereof I have signed my name to this specification in the presence of two subscribing witnesses.

JOSEPH D. MORLEY. Vv'itnesses:

WILLIAM D. CoNNER, HARRY SMITH.

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